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A Roanoke brewery celebrating its fifth anniversary has revealed how COVID-19’s lingering effects impacted its beer quality until recently.
Golden Cactus Brewing, located in downtown Roanoke’s West Station area, opened during the height of the pandemic in August 2020. Now, Head Brewer Evan Graham has disclosed that he suffered from COVID-related loss of smell that affected his ability to perfect his beer recipes.
COVID impact on craft beer production
“I feel like there were a couple of years where I had COVID-nose whenever we were brewing the beer, and I don’t think it was as quality as it should be,” Graham explained. “Now I finally came out of that and I’ve rectified some of the issues I was having with the beers.”
The condition Graham experienced, sometimes called “smell blindness” or anosmia, is a well-documented side effect of COVID-19 infection. Research shows that up to 80% of people infected with the virus experienced some degree of smell loss, with recovery times varying from days to months or even years.
For brewers and others in the food and beverage industry, this sensory impairment can be particularly challenging professionally.
Brewery invites customers to rediscover their beers
Graham is now encouraging patrons who may have tried Golden Cactus beers during this period to give them another chance.
“You’ve had our beer and you didn’t like it before? I think you should give it a try again,” Graham said. “That’s just my personal opinion as the brewer, because what I really care about at the end of the day is the beer and the beer quality. I feel like my taste blindness was masking what I really wanted the beer to be, and I feel like it’s really improved.”
West Station brewery marks five years despite pandemic challenges
Golden Cactus Brewing has established itself as a fixture in Roanoke’s growing craft beer scene despite launching under challenging circumstances. Self-described as “the chillest brewery in Roanoke,” the establishment operates from a building with a colorful history, previously serving as both a soda bottling plant and a waterbed store.
Located at the intersection of 5th Street and Salem Avenue (214 5th St SW), the dog-friendly taproom sits near local businesses like Blade Gaming and Food Hut. The brewery recently celebrated its fifth anniversary in August 2025, marking a significant milestone after opening during the pandemic.
Craft beer industry continues COVID recovery
Golden Cactus Brewing’s experience reflects broader challenges faced by the craft beer industry during and after the COVID-19 pandemic. Many breweries had to adapt their business models when on-premise consumption was restricted, with some shifting toward increased can sales and takeout options.
The brewery maintains regular hours Monday through Thursday from 3-9 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 12-10 p.m., and Sunday from 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. It also hosts a Mid-Week Market every Wednesday featuring local vendors, craft beer, food specials, and live music.
As the craft beer industry continues its recovery from pandemic disruptions, stories like Graham’s highlight both the hidden challenges and resilience of local brewers committed to quality despite unprecedented obstacles.
